66 replies to this topic

[TexanIdiot25]

Would it be possible to mount the wiper motor on the other side of the firewall? You'd have to go a bit custom with the motor source, but if you were so inclined..

[Gant]

Would it be possible to mount the wiper motor on the other side of the firewall? You'd have to go a bit custom with the motor source, but if you were so inclined..

I was just thinking about that, maybe if you took out your blower motor? that is if your not planning on keeping it

[OG Wagon]

OK, so I'm getting up early tomorrow morning to prep and paint this bay. Before then, I'll be removing the massive fuel filter and fuel lines in the bay. If I can't replace them with aftermarket -AN goodness, I suppose I'll put them back on after paint.

Question: Fuel return line- when removed will expose a little flared fuel line/nipple. Correct? But...

What about the main fuel line. The one that goes to the fuel filter, and looks like it screws on. When removed, what is left there? Is it a threaded pipe/line? Sure looks to be. If so, can it simply be cut to a straight edge, and I then attach a braided line, and just hose clamp such line in place? This is my big current question. If I can run a standard fuel hose from here WITHOUT creating a leak. I know 32 psi. is a great amount of fuel pressure, which probably explains the existing OEM equipment.

Next big question is rather there is a blue anadozied -AN fitting to bango to connect to the fuel rail. Anyone know?

So, the main fuel line is the one at question right now- If this can be replaced with SS and AN equipment?

If so, I'll do that, with an Earls in-line in its place. Should clean things up nicely. Once that is "cleaned up", the big box (wiper motor) beside it shouldn't look quite as hideous, IMHO.

If so, I'll probably just keep the wiper there. However, I will keep thinking on that one, either way.

Thanks all!

[Old School REX]

Check HERE , it should be page 11 of my old build thread and where I used AN fittings a re-did the entire fuel line system to what I feel is a MUCH cleaner look. I think I listed the sizes of the fittings, and while I haven't gotten the car to run yet, I have used my fuel pressure gauge to see well past 32p.s.i and have no leaks at all. Let me know if you need more help in this department, I spent alot of time researching this issue myself. Be warned though... if you get the expensive stuff like I did, you will spend about $500 + to do everything I did... lol

[OG Wagon]

Your the man! Just what I wanted to see/hear! Could you please diagram your set-up for us, and post up the fitting sizes. Where did you order from?

I am guessing that the majority of your cost was in: (1) the fuel pump; and (2) Name brand fittings. Is this correct?

Thanks for your input!

[Old School REX]

In these two photos you can see the design the best. It's a 90degree fitting from the factory fuel feed line straight to an in line fuel filter, then curves under the intake manifold out of view and meets the factory fuel rail at a banjo fitting. The return in my case is hooked to an aftermarket FPR, so the return on the EW would just be a piece of the braided hose slid over the factory regulator and clamped down like I have mine hooked back at the firewall. Feel free to ask me ANY more questions.

Oh, and I got all my stuff from a local speed store that sells mostly to domestics, but its all the same stuff... Tennessee Speed Sport is the company, but you can get the same stuff I did at JEGS, etc...

The fittings are a 6Al I believe... I'll have to go check for you to be sure though.

[firstgencrx]

That is very sano there Old School! Nice and clean. And just for your own info, it's "-6 AN" for the line. The 6 signifies 6/16" ID, or 3/8" ID when reduced. It's a dimensional standard used by the aircraft industry.

David

[OG Wagon]

Old School, what about the banjo fitting on the fuel rail? What size?

And the threaded end coming from the firewall, what size there? All those all -6AN (6/16"'s) as well?

Additionally, your expensive Russell fittings have o-rings in them correct? I ask b/c I used the cheapo Summit fittings on the wagon. WAY cheaper (like 1/4th the cost!), but they would leak if I did not dope-up them REALLY generously, and torque them down sano-tight. Anyone else experience this with the cheaper -AN fittings? If the o-ring is what's making the differnce here, I'll spend 4 times as much for a Russell fitting. Especially with about 15 x's the fuel pressure running through our Si models in comparison to the 2.5 running through the carb models!

1stgen: thanks for the info. on the -AN sizing. So, the first number just equates to how many 16'ths of an inch your talking about? Like an -8AN line would be 8/16"s, or 1/2 an inch? Is this correct?

[firstgencrx]

1stgen: thanks for the info. on the -AN sizing. So, the first number just equates to how many 16'ths of an inch your talking about? Like an -8AN line would be 8/16"s, or 1/2 an inch? Is this correct?

That is correct.

[C8V6C]

However, when I look at the drivers side fender to the firewall, I don't see ANY hole that enters the interior of the car to pass wires through. Am I missing something here?

Is appears as if I'm going to need to drill/route a hole in the frame somewhere. I, obviously, want to avoid this, for many reasons. However, how am I going to run the headlight and washer wiring down the left side of the car? I suppose I could go to the passenger side, all the way accross the car along the washer trowel to the drivers side, and THEN through the fender and out by the headlights. However, this seems a bit overly-extravagant, ya know?

Please advise. Thanks!

I ran mine under the fender, close to the very top and wrapped well. Then ran the wires through the bottom, near the door. There is a rubber plug that was removed, and gave me access to under the dash

[Old School REX]

Thanks 1stgen! I had a brain fart there on verbage...

Now with the fittings... Mine have no o-rings at all... Its just aliminum to aluminum for the seal. That's what makes them "re-usable"... I dunno about your fittings. Got any photos of them?

[OG Wagon]

OK, so next question:

- Was going to relocate the charcoal canister, but now afraid that the relocation will put the rubber lines in a way that they look distracting, thus really defeating the purpose of the initial relocation.

So, can I just delete the hole charcoal system? I know I did on my carb model. What about on the FI models? Whats the best/safest way to do this?

Or, should I stick with my relocation, keep the charcoal can, and just try to work the cleanest way to re-route the vac lines, etc...?

[DEIVIONCRX]

I delete the Charcoal canister on all of my Honda's. Just remove the canister and all 3 lines. I usually like to take a long piece of hose and run from the metal line on the firewall down to the subframe just to keep fumes out of the engine bay as much as possible, then i put a vacuum cap on the nipple on the throttle body. It only pulls vacuum randomly usually on a throttle blip but i still like to plug it.

[OG Wagon]

Bingo! Devion=ON IT! Thanks a ton.

[OG Wagon]

Here's my completed main fuel supply set-up from the firewall to the fuel rail:



Much thanks to Old School Rex for his help and resources on this. My whole set-up cost a little over $130 from Summit Racing, but here is what is involved, if your interested; in order, from firewall. SUMMIT RACING ROCKS!!! Absolutely incredible customer service. Seriously, I really can rate them any better, from top to bottom, unreal.

Firewall threaded nipple (lucky for us, this is a 6AN threaded nipple; makes things a lot easier!); -6AN 90-degree elbow; hose; 6AN hose end; Earls Fuel Filter; 6AN hose end; hose; 6AN hose end; 6AN-to-6AN male-to-male Fuel Pressure gauge "rail" fitting w/ 1/8" NPT threaded hole to fit most standard FP gauges; select your FP guage I choose to use my existing B&M unit; 6AN-to-6AN FEMALE coupler; Russell banjo fitting for Honda/Acura (part # 640910) (has a male 6AN thread on it's receiving end).

More pics for reference:









Also, I have chosen to go with Summit black nylon hose, for a couple reasons:

(1) it just looks cool! Will really set off the blue/red in the bay as well, as oppose to taking away from it, IMO..

(2) I'm hoping it will be easier to cut/work with than the SS stuff. Working with the SS lines last year, it was very difficult to get smooth/straight edges after cutting it that would slide easily into the hose end fittings. At least with the Summit stuff, can't speak for other brands.

(3) The summit line costs $20 for 3 feet, which is really not that bad. Bank on waiting a few more days for it, seems it's in high demand. I hope 3-feet is enough!

The charcoal canister is getting deleted, so that nipple will be blocked off. As for the fuel-return line, I'll be running the same black nylon line as my fuel supply line. Auto Zone carries these little fake AN-looking hose clamps, made by the Spectre brand, in blue/red color only, and cost around $7 for two. I'll use one of those on each side of this line to clamp it down. Airgasm showed me this little trick. The match brilliantly beside the real -AN fittings!

Have a great Sunday!